Rather than explain where I have been for the last nine
months to a silent digital audience I will instead do a little of this: (and
then tell a nice story about Quiet)
I have been tested by Beaufort. But it’s a New Year and I am finally getting
the F out of here. Next stop-Savannah
(more on that to come). It’s not my
style to really believe that there is much of a will behind the way the world
works. But looking back at my time here,
especially knowing that I’m finally leaving, it’s a bit of a revelation to see
the big picture of what this past year taught me. The message is so clear now, and I admit my
pride has taken a bit of a hit at realizing how obvious it all is. January 1st of 2012 I made the
decision to make the final liquidation of my assets and move the boat to the
coast no matter the cost, and disregarding that I knew I couldn’t afford
it. At the time I felt trapped,
landlocked on a lake in the middle of the Carolinas. I wasn’t saving money as I once was due in
large part to an hour long commute inflating my gas costs. I was having immediate relationship problems
with my parents, and I was ready for a change of pace. Funny enough I think I was in South Carolina
when I had the urge to flee. I was on my
way back to Charlotte, on the highway (an excellent place for revelations,
epiphanies, and prophecies). Little did
I know that S. Carolina would become my Davey Jones’ Locker, trapping me, testing
me, trying to drown the dream with all hands aboard. *Trying.
What lay ahead for me back then was discomfort, fear,
anxiety, and a very tangible sense of ongoing adventure. It is addictive, and when the miles tick by
and the nights of fretful sleep anchored in the middle of nowhere end and you
step out into the morning light realizing you’ve survived another night the exhilaration
is delicious. Underequipped and
alone. That kind of adventure got
replaced upon my arrival in Beaufort with a different kind; how to make enough
cash to keep moving. That meant learning
new things, making new contacts and trying to use my skill set to get the most
out of my life and my time in a new place.
I don’t want this to be a forum for bitching like so many
blogs can be, so I’ll leave it at that.
I also appreciate that a bulk of my trip has yet to be documented
here. However, I’ve sort of lost track
of the chronology and my memory won’t do the trip justice. But rather than deprive you of any decent
plot I will describe one day and two nights I spent anchored just south of
Myrtle Beach. When I think of the trip
down I always think of that stop for some reason. I think it might represent in my mind the
freedom I felt alone on the water.
I was here:
In the middle of nowhere, pretty inland South Carolina, I
pulled up with enough light to carefully anchor and then dramatically do some
work for my old job. I had to use my
phone to hook the computer to the internet and took care of some last minute
work my coworkers in offices around the country needed done. Anyway once I was finished with that I sat in
the cockpit and watched a hawk bringing nesting material back to the top of a
piling that had an ICW marker signpost mounted on it. I could hear the baby hawks calling out to
their mother when she flew off to find nesting material. The water was as flat as glass and the spot
was very well protected from the wind.
It was so quite that even though I couldn’t see the chicks I could hear
them.
Many quiet cups of tea and perhaps a wildlife documentary
later it was dark and I got in bed. Very
quickly I realized how much I would need to get used to the quiet. The mangroves came alive at night, the creature calls were vivid, and close. Like predators were stalking... but I'm on a boat. Can jaguars swim? Cats...
As the tide drew water across my boat all night I could hear the myriad of minutia scraping along my hull. Picture a night so still that a twig floating down a river bumps into the hull of a boat and because it’s the lowlands (they call it The Lowcountry here) the water is moving so very slowly along… well inside the boat it’s as if that sound gets amplified and you can’t hear anything else since you’re paranoid already that the anchor is slipping or something as bad, and you’re trying to go to sleep too early with too much energy after a full day of mostly sitting still behind a wheel pulling on some ropes from time to time. All. Day. But you don’t have electricity besides some dim cabin lights- no company, no booze.
As the tide drew water across my boat all night I could hear the myriad of minutia scraping along my hull. Picture a night so still that a twig floating down a river bumps into the hull of a boat and because it’s the lowlands (they call it The Lowcountry here) the water is moving so very slowly along… well inside the boat it’s as if that sound gets amplified and you can’t hear anything else since you’re paranoid already that the anchor is slipping or something as bad, and you’re trying to go to sleep too early with too much energy after a full day of mostly sitting still behind a wheel pulling on some ropes from time to time. All. Day. But you don’t have electricity besides some dim cabin lights- no company, no booze.
Then suddenly a slightly larger twig suddenly strikes
causing you to jump every few minutes.
That first night was all about the primal ability to listen intensely,
especially as you let your guard down.
By the next morning I was used to the twigs and was
relishing the one day I didn’t sail and the only day I stopped for my entire
trip into South Carolina. I was looking
forward to reading outside in the windless weather. I had been battered around at the coast for
long enough. So I read an ancient copy
of one of the Sherlock Holmes sequels by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (whose name I
love) that was passed to me when I was younger by my great uncle John Ash. The best part was that it had been such a
long time since I read the tales as a child that I didn’t remember a single one
of the mysteries.
Drank more tea… PB&J again, it was really quiet. All day.
I had gotten used to weeks of day in day out feeling pressed to keep
moving, to keep running no matter what.
It was eerie to be fighting what I had gotten used to in order to sit
and relax and enjoy the environment. Probably gave in watched another nature
documentary on my laptop to break up the silence with the soothing and subtly
inspired voice of David Attenborough tell me about migratory patterns of the
snowbirds… or whatever. Phonebook.
I made up my mind to
leave early the next day and stock up on supplies by stopping at a marina down
the way. Middle of the night, I suddenly
wake. Something about the gentle
movements the boat was making had
changed. It was so subtle I immediately
chalked it up to the paranoia that had been haunting my sleeping hours with its
chaotic silence. But I got up to check
anyway. Out in the cockpit looking into
the oily black-dark water of the night with a flashlight there it is, the
mother of all twigs.
I had a limb, a very large limb that had snagged somewhere beneath
the boat. It was big enough I could see
it from both sides of the boat.
Crap. It’s the middle of the
night I’m not even awake. Is it caught
on the keel or the rudder? Keel would be
ok, but rudder would be bad. I can’t
see, much less operate the boat in this dark to free myself. I tried poking it with the blunt end of my
docking hook. It hasn’t broken anything
yet. It’ll have to wait until
morning. A few more hours of light,
often interrupted sleep later I got up at dawn and slowly make preparations to
free myself. I poked it some more.
UPDATE: I found the documentation of this Limb!
Finally I decided that because the boat was pointed into the current my best bet would be to back off of the tree limb. Started her up and gunned it in reverse and ran away from the dislodged massive tree limb. When I got to the marina to ride my bike into town for groceries… I was a bit of a mess. Like I had been camping and wasn’t quite ready to hop back into society. I wasn’t. But I lived. It was a good time.
UPDATE: I found the documentation of this Limb!
Finally I decided that because the boat was pointed into the current my best bet would be to back off of the tree limb. Started her up and gunned it in reverse and ran away from the dislodged massive tree limb. When I got to the marina to ride my bike into town for groceries… I was a bit of a mess. Like I had been camping and wasn’t quite ready to hop back into society. I wasn’t. But I lived. It was a good time.
Oh, and here are some pictures...
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