Thursday, August 16, 2012

A Letter


Dear South Carolina,

I have to admit, it’s a little embarrassing to finally write after so long… I guess we just have had a rough mutual past.  Not enough ups to go with the downs.  I’ve been avoiding coming to terms with you.  The idea was to largely ignore you, pass by in stealth mode, without getting snagged in your boggish swamps.  Not get hassled by your conservative wing-nut ideals.  Slip through the hierarchy of supremacist classifications, histrionics, and socially accepted racism.  I would have passed by observing you from a distance but keeping our eyes from locking.  Politely keeping the association between us as close to nil as possible.

I’ve been classified North Carolinian these many years.  I’m now 29 years old and I’ve spent 16.5 of those years in NC.  I can’t help but consider myself more North Carolinian as an American than anything else.  But you’ve never been very far away.  It’s the nature of North and South Carolina I think.  North Carolina is long and lean, broad and varied.  It stretches like taffy from the outer banks to a floppy end melting over the Appalachians.  South Carolina, you are stocky and vacant.  You are but a misshapen brick of a state, a land of golf carts and crocodiles; one massive mosquito breeding ground with your sweaty air and potent stench of decay.  Not much more than a massive compost heap just outside North Carolina’s walls.  Your muddy or sandy soil when dry is saturated with ant colonies, such that avoiding ant hills is the equivalent of never standing in one spot for more than an instant.  Keep walking, or South Carolina will devour you in agony.

That’s how I used to think of you, I know it sounds harsh, and I know I don’t deserve your forgiveness for being so ignorant and assuming.  Now I’ve been here for almost five months, I know better.  I’m not making the assumption anymore.  You really are all those things.  I actually still feel that way about you, in general.  So you can forgive me now if you like, but I won’t beg or recount my beliefs and teachings; just like you wouldn’t.  The fact of the matter is North Carolina is better… even though many defining principals are similar.

I’m going to stop making as many generalizations though and get through with this letter.  I’m going to write you as the man that you’ve gotten to know in the special, unique and somewhat uncomfortable way we’ve grown accustomed to.  After all, even though I did my best to shun you with the high level professionalism of a thirteen year old girl, we were forced together by circumstance.  I was effectively poured out from a dirty pitcher, naked and wet, hungry and desperate like an alleyway prostitute whose stolen clothes only bought her one lift to the seedy back entrance at the greasy drug den where her pimp is smoldering with anger.  We make quite the pair.

I’d like to think that maybe that’s why we got along, I came to you when I was hitting rock bottom, when I was all but broken, panicked and dehydrated.  I’d like to think that it wasn’t really my fault.  But, I don’t like to delude myself indefinitely.  I know it all falls back to the moment I made the decision to flee.  Like the well respected city council member who realizes his cohorts have squealed about the South American connections, that the local airport is swarming with feds and his home phones have been tapped.

New Year’s Day 2012 I decided that I wouldn’t be able to fix the boat and really prepare it for the journey ahead; but that I was going to go for it anyway, knowing full well that it would catch up to me.  I just hoped that my life as a fugitive would last long enough to creep across the border… that I’d be able to meet my South American connection at his dusty truck just across the border at sunset and that I could get my new life started before the needed repairs caught up to me.

South Carolina, like the expert assassin that you’ve always been, you snagged me in your low hanging moss, and cut me up on your oyster beds and withered and crushed me with your heavy heat.  Why couldn’t you have just let me go?  Is it my European lineage?  Is it retribution for your laborious defeat in the war against the pale faced settlers that would rape your few resources?  I have to admit your dastardly method of punishment is ingenious.  It hints at a level of intelligence I wasn’t expecting.  You beckon to the unfortunate or deceived, you offer a sweet indulgence or two, an anecdotal nicety that was unexpected, and just enough promise for a profitable stay; and then it gets a little warmer, a little wetter, and a lot more alive.  Next thing you know you are just one big extermination machine, an oven for kittens.  I’m not talking about the weather.

But it’s cool, cuz I made the choice… 
And…

I’m glad I got to know you after everything.  I mean, although it’s twisted, you certainly have a sense of humor.  Like the kind of guilty laugh you do when the guy hits his head in time with the laugh track, and the video ends before the paramedics arrive.  There’s a lot of that here.  You also know how to seriously relax, I’m not sure you know how to do anything but relax.  You also have this super convincing version of beauty going on.  You are full of wide open unpopulated places, and nature has a great hold everywhere here.  But I can’t get past this nagging feeling that it’s all a bit of over dressing to obscure the blatant reality that you are flat…

I’m sorry but the fact of the matter is that curves matter.  I know, I know- you think that the tattoos and the belly piercing and the fact that you pull off the unshaven “natural look” so well, make up for it.  But let me let you in on a little secret… it doesn’t.  There is something that tugs at the guttural unevolved spiritual libido- it practically guarantees mutual satisfaction- Elevation.  Get some.

Ya know, mix it up.
Some foot hills here and there, dunes, whatever you want.  Anything would be a big step forward.  I hear tell about some mountains that weakly cling to North Carolina’s chain like an almost functional extra limb, but I’ve never seen them.  If they do exist, they might as well not.  You’re a big lady South Carolina, they seem too far away to be true.

But it’s cool, I’m not so shallow to let one (if glaring) flaw keep me from, if begrudgingly, getting to know you, and convincingly believe I have feelings for you.  It may sound like I’m pulling a lot of 180’s in describing you, bait and switches if you will, or improvised compliment devices; but, that’s only because that’s how my relationship has been with you.  I wouldn’t give it up for anything, there will always be a place in my heart for you, I’ll always sort of love you, in a special kind of way, you know, like this one kind of love, but not that other love kind of love…?

There are things about you that you should never change.  Your cooking is amazing.  We all know a way to a man’s heart, and you’ve got that covered.  Sunsets here are hypnotizing gypsy spells made of cotton candy and vanilla fighter jets.  The tide mesmerizes everything and commands a sorcerer’s apprentice orchestration that sets the creatures abuzz, and the populous entranced.  The breeze melodically rises and falls threatening insect Armageddon before the sudden storm drops the beat, yo.  Then the lightening dazzles while the thunder keeps rhythm with bass that pumps your blood for you.  Marsh grasses twist, bend, and strain prostrate.  Allowing the gusts to really gain speed kicking up the sandy soil as if trying to mix it with the atmosphere above, a grey and black two-tone design that is stunning to watch as it invades. The sky follows the curling motion of a tidal wave submerging what was picturesque setting minutes prior.  What follows is a fierce rain that chills you in the accompanying wind.  The puddles form almost instantly and suddenly it seems as if water is coming from everywhere.  The water from above is cold and stings while the water from below is warm, instantly made comfortable by the still baking ground, gritty with sand and mud.  It’s a rain that makes you dirty.  It’s sexy, and kind of hurts.  Once you’ve been baptized to the bone, saturated in the most protected crevasses on your person, the gauntlet having been thrown down, the victor unanimously recognized; then it becomes steady fat rain, no longer parallel to the ground.  It falls directly down in a stormy slow breeze, a bit intimidating, but gentle and almost reassuring.

While I am really itching to get the proper start on what I wished had begun the way I envisioned; I am happy I got to know you.  I’m happy that you welcomed me, even if it was done in your plain language terrain, with the spike of dark slapstick humor, dosed using your patented brash unforgiving karma circus.  I wish you were more hospitable, but it’s not your fault, and although it was painful- I know it’s just the way you break us into your tradition.  I’m the only one to blame for any discomfort you’ve brought me; you have my pardon for any torture you might have wrung me with.

So this is my coming to terms with you South Carolina.  I hope I made my feelings clear, I have a tender sentiment in my heart as I write this; no, seriously.  I’m not surprised we have our conflicts.  I wasn’t meant to be here.  It was going to be inevitable that we would row.  But I wish there had been fewer games and deceptions, I wish we were both more upfront with each other, that we had taken each other seriously.  But I have learned that games and deception are a part of life with you.  I’ve learned that seriousness is incongruous with the fundamentals of living here with you.  It’s something that must be accepted for what it is, parts of you that have to be embraced.
So are we good?  What’s the score here?

Luv ya,
X

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Ummm, an update?

So I've discovered that in my line of lifestyle a blog is difficult to keep current... if any of you follow my blog you've probably noticed dates listed in the blog that don't mesh with the published dates...  currently I'm writing about dates in March, while it's actually the beginning of June.

This post is to help explain that a bit.
I'm currently in Beaufort SC. and have been here for a number of months.  My reasons for the delayed posts mostly have to do with the lack of internet connections required for uploading images and videos, in conjunction with my frantic and sometimes failed attempts to get jobs here.  I am only now getting into something of a routine, teaching swim lessons at a local yacht club and working weekends at a restaurant... I don't want to progress the plot too much, but I thought it could use some explaination-

To keep this post from being an utter waste, I have filled it with images of the crazy South Carolina wildlife I've observed and bothered to take photos of.... enjoy!

Myrtle Beach, no further explanation necessary


My first successul dolphin shot (of many failed ones)





"Rock Snake" maybe?








The Marines have their own section at Walmart... front and center.


Blinded this guy in the middle of the night

A manta ray!







Crocodiles were much closer than they appear





A crab feeding on my hull

This one (about 1.5 inches across) was playing dead in the pool, until I pulled him out

ummm, yeah.

Keeping North Carolina to the North


I finally had my first day of making the kind of progress I could expect on my own.  Finally one day when engine trouble, getting towed, weather, or the military hadn't hampered my progress or messed with the statistics.  I had been for weeks, and even months trying to gauge how far I'd be able to travel in a given day, and after more than 100 miles from New Bern- I had a number to compare to; 36.4 miles.  Mostly under sail power on the Intra-Coastal Waterway.

It was 115 miles back to New Bern, but keep in mind we had done roughly 80 miles of sailing on the ocean (that doesn’t count), and I had been turned back by the military, so it had taken over 200 miles of travel to get half that distance.  Now I had an engine that had proved itself, and the wind seemed to be blowing in the right direction to enable sailing on the ICW, which was crucial because I couldn’t afford to spend money on gas.

It was a mere 30 miles to the Cape Fear River, which marked my goal destination of Wilmington.  It would be another 50 miles to the South Carolina border.  The race was against my bank account- I needed to get to Beaufort SC; another 280 miles away.  That put me nine days away from free dockage using my new benchmark.  There was work that needed to be done too- all I needed was an internet connection to do it.

Now I needed to make use of the favorable winds and get as far down the coast as I could.  After leaving Sloop Point I figured I could make the Cape Fear River in one day- and finally be where Antonio and I had planned to arrive when we set out on the ocean and failed.

Thursday March 8th:

Upon departure I was able to fill the sails, although it was a tricky headwind

After having a pleasant morning talking to Ron, and securing my new anchor I bumped my way out of Marker 90 Marina just before noon.  I turned South on the ICW into wind conditions barely able to support raising the sails.  It was a beautiful morning and I was able to take my shirt off to get some sun right off the bat.
I played with the dolphins and basically took in North Carolina as I sailed along a necklace of small islands that bordered the ICW.  



Figure Eight Island Swing Bridge



Things were beginning to look more familiar as I got closer to Wilmington.  Marker 90 Marina had been essentially the beginning of the “Home Stretch”.  I had spent a lot of time in this area growing up, and the barrier islands were looking more and more familiar as I got farther south.
I passed through the Figure 8 Island Swing Bridge, and got to enjoy the sight a little more than the Surf City Swing Bridge the day before (which I had been rushing to get through).




I think this truss design (used in most of the retractable bridges I passed) is the most entertaining and creative way of getting a road out of my way

I was weighing the options out in front of me; I could head up to a cheaper marina further up the Cape Fear River and add about 20 miles to my trip, or I could forgo heading towards Wilmington-proper (which isn’t actually on the coast but inland up the river).  I needed to get online and get some work done- so as I approached Carolina Beach and took note of the time and the tides I could tell I would have to navigate the Cape Fear River in the dark if I was going to make it to the cheaper marina.  Instead, I chose to play it safe and stop at the closer marina that wasn’t so out of the way.




The Wrightsville Beach Bascule Bridge


But not before passing through the Wrightsville Beach Bascule Bridge.  This bridge is something of an icon to me personally.  It is the bridge that leads to the beach I’ve spent the most time out of any in my life.  I had crossed over the bridge an innumerable amount, but had never passed underneath.  

In middle school I swam off the beach as a hurricane approached.  When my dog was a puppy, this was the first beach she’d ever been on, and ran away in excitement at the smells carried on the wind.  With so many memories it was somewhat a triumph to see this familiar sight from a completely new perspective.



A most familiar bridge to me, seen from a new perspective


After passing the Wrightsville Beach Bascule I felt the urge to hurry and beat dusk to Joyner Marina, which was still 12 miles away, a distance in which anything can happen.  When I arrived it had just gotten dark, and the current was very strong as I approached the fuel dock at the marina.  The current was strong enough that in trying to dock I was able to secure the boat, but lost my hook (which is a pretty crucial tool for docking, especially when solo).  I had to push off, retrieve the hook (which floats), and re-dock… feeling somewhat awkward.




The motor-yacht opulence of Wrightsville Beach

Not where I was going to spend my coin...

Having gotten to Wilmington, and having found an internet connection, all that was left was to take a look at the entrance to a short and narrow canal that would lead me to the Cape Fear River.  The entrance to the canal is directly below a fixed bridge.  At night the entrance looked like a mouth big enough to eat boats.  I was glad to pause and delay what I considered to be the next stage of the voyage.  There was nothing familiar to me anywhere South of here until Charleston SC, which still isn’t that familiar.


But I wouldn’t need to be worried about the all consuming mouth for more than 24 hours, after which I would be rested, and have a day’s work under my belt…


Saturday March 10th:


I started out early.  While I had picked out a few potential stopping points in the vicinity of the South Carolina border (using my new benchmark), I wasn’t sure where I would stop, how far I would get, or if the Cape Fear River might have something unexpected in store.


The gaping maw that would lead me to the Cape Fear River, appropriately marked by the Carolina Beach fixed bridge (or highway 421 if you want to get technical)


A short jump through the canal and I was off- today was my day to reach South Carolina- the Cape Fear river was before me- huge….!



It felt good to be on somewhat open waters for the first time since Antonio and I returned battered from our adventure at sea.  The wind was strong and constant.  I finally got to cruise the way it’s meant to be done, in great conditions.



A snakk but cute little civilization on the South banks of the Cape Fear River, the last I would see before entering SC


Over all too soon, I had run with it for 12 miles and in no time I picked up the ICW on the other side.  The wind was still at as usable angle, so it was good going that morning, but the wind was straying farther and farther West throughout the day and at various points I struggled to keep moving into the wind on the narrow ribbon of water I had available.



This picture gives decent description to the sliver of North Carolina I had left to travel that day


The farewell to North Carolina was a mostly rural one.  The environment was mostly marshland with several shallow passages out to the sea.  I passed many small private fishing boats and even saw one particularly energetic young man swimming (more or less) in the shallows here:


Lines of hundreds of mobile homes, a perfect reminder of North Carolina's economic status (this was right next to prime real estate)

The Sunset Beach bridge, a mere 3 miles from the border, the last great sight my home state had to offer

The general environs

My goodnight view

I anchored just across the border in SC.  It was my first time anchoring overnight alone, and with a new anchor- but I was confident that with the calm conditions and my two anchors I didn’t have much to worry about.  Consolations aside I was on edge.  But another sailboat of similar size anchored in the same branch I did which gave me some relief.  Due to the placid conditions I knew there was nothing to worry about and slept well, but couldn’t help but wake several times throughout the night and pop my head out the hatch to confirm I hadn’t drifted onto shore.

The view upon anchoring


My improvised anchor light...


I woke early the next morning with South Carolina, and entirely unfamiliar waters/geography ahead.


This entry's portion of the trip- two days of travel



Sunday, April 29, 2012

Naval Firepower


I spent my time somewhat stranded in Swansboro, fixing the engine and plotting my escape 

Tuesday March 6th:
After far too long in Swansboro, NC I found myself pulling away to head south dolphins in tow (which I hoped was a good sign), engine running smoothly without any of the smoke that crippled me the last time I had moved the boat.  I was charting completely new territory, and as long as the engine held out- there was nothing that could stop me.





Except… the Navy.  They did a very good job of it too.  Not 7 miles from Swansboro a Navy patrol boat turned me back, telling me via the VHF radio that the ICW was closed “due to a live-fire exercise”. 
I had been hearing thundering booms for a whole week while I was in Swansboro- they went through the night and even in the wind storms that hammered me while I was trying to fix the engine the thunder could be heard, if a little muffled by the wind.
The restricted zone defeats me again, this time with an Apache


I cannot express the disappointment I felt having to turn back AGAIN… and returning with my head bowed and shoulders defeated to Dudley’s Marina back in Swansboro literally cursing the Dolphin good luck sign… only to find out (by calling the base later) that I had the choice of waiting and getting clearance to pass through the restricted zone (which the Navy hadn't let on); this is the same restricted zone that contributed to the decision to turn back when Antonio and I were on the ocean that fateful night little more than a week prior.




Wednesday March 7th:
Try, and try again.
I disembarked from Dudley’s early in the morning and was back to knock on the Navy’s door again, this time armed with the knowledge of my rights to halt their Live-Fire after a 20 minute wait to make “best speed” through the firing range.  Here is a low-quality taste of what war games sound like:




What you’re hearing is the whine of the Mini-gun, a rapid fire computer controlled Gatlin gun that will make Swiss cheese out of anything the computer might be interested it targeting, and the deeper sound is the fifty caliber machine gun, the heaviest of the human point-and-shoot death machines.

The Marine base seemed to shut down after I got clearance- the sudden lack of "war sounds" while the military stood down to little old me was eerie.  The skeletons littering the landscape didn't help- I got to see some of their casualties as I passed through this land of cloak and dagger:









The V-22 Ospreys were just as active as I hauled ass through the trench back to the safety of civilian life and out of the barren wasteland of the warzone.  Blackhawks and Apaches were abound amongst the F-18’s and all sorts of larger aircraft; I couldn’t help but feel a sense of imminent invasion and causes for war were right around the corner.





I got another intimate taste of how unpredictable the waters of ICW are- I was where I was meant to be, but “something” very hard stopped me in my tracks while I was at my top engine speed- BOOM the whole boat lurched forward as my keel struck whatever was submerged and I winced at the too familiar sound of everything in the cabin flying off the shelves and onto the floor.  Later, I found things that were originally at the back of the boat very near the front.  Whatever I had hit, I hit very hard and all five tons of my boat was stopped instantly.  I’m guessing it was a boulder, or a huge chunk of steel, but whatever it was I half expect to find a sizable chunk missing from my keel the next time the boat gets hauled out of the water…



After that unexpected halt my nerves were pretty frayed, the gunships were still circling and the best part was I had a bridge that needed to open just for me (a first).  It was an intimidating roadblock I knew was in my way, but not as intimidating as the zone I was already in.  The bridge was the finish line, so I was glad to have gotten there.
As I passed out of the restricted zone is seemed like a cease-fire had been lifted and with all the more gusto after being halted, the war machine revved into motion, with every imaginable weapon lighting up like a Christmas tree- of course, I couldn’t see any of them.  But seeing isn’t believing when it comes to the sounds of shells exploding, or the hum of mini-guns spitting out hundreds of rounds per minute, or fifty caliber mounted machine guns hammering away like a construction worker high on caffeine.  All. At. The. Same. Time.



With no ceremony, and still somewhat jarred from the “open-fire” order that went out upon my departure, I requested the swing bridge be opened as Moses and the Red Sea, and so it was.  I passed through and my boat and I were re-christened “movers of bridges”.  A pretty exciting moment, that nobody was around to witness, although Morgan the Dog seemed a little bit worried to see the massive bridge move out of the way…





I didn't realize how used to such a thing I would become



For the rest of the day military craft were buzzing around like big gas guzzling flies and I could still hear the battleship cannons for miles and miles.  I made some calls and found a cheap place to keep the boat overnight- a small dock still under construction.  I was in a slip reserved for professional fishing boats that were apparently out to sea for a few days taking advantage of the pause in rough wind weather.








Lots of empty vacation homes on the ICW

Two swing bridges in one day, what!?



An anchored boat in a spot I had considered trying to anchor my boat

Before realizing this boat was permanently grounded making the mistake I considered....



Apparently John Travolta played a character that lived in this building... or something


Ron's building was basically a convenience store on the water right next to the public boat ramp that was being updated with some new technology.  He couldn’t offer me shore power or wireless internet, but he did let me ride with him into “town” which was a gas station.  The ride gave us plenty of time to talk, and upon hearing my description of the restricted zone, he offered up some of his own local rumors.  
Apparently between two and three Navy destroyers were off the coast, and possibly an aircraft carrier- which accounted for the massive thundering blasts and subsequent explosions I’d been listening to.  He explained that for the past 6 weeks they had been running war games constantly 24/7.  He was worried about it because similar war games had taken place in similar fashion before every major conflict, most recently the Iraq War, before that- Desert Storm.  He could only surmise that these latest games were training for an imminent Iran conflict.


Made it 36 miles... a record under my own power!


Marker 90 Marina (on the right, Travolta to the left)

I went to bed, belly full of Subway, thoughts heavy with a much more tangible sense of war looming.  It was a very rural area, but I felt that this is where you find people who have a deeper insight into these matters than most of the populous.  Mainly for two big reasons; they witness some things that don’t make it to the realm of public knowledge, and they have been around long enough to know what it means.
As I lay there drifting off to muffled sounds of shells being fired from offshore, I thought about what would happen if war games like these were publicized.  We were living in Venezuela when Desert Storm went down, and I remember news footage of the newly instituted “Smart Bombs” doing their damage.  I was 8 years old.
With the Iraq war still fresh in even the youngest citizen’s mind, I think some more interest and scrutiny would be taken regarding where we are with Iran, and what the mobilization effort is really doing if these war games were in the public’s face they way they were for me that day.  If there is one thing I’ve learned in my years of travel, if it’s going on in one small place like Sloop Point NC, then it’s going on nationwide, and there are military bases and installations everywhere.
I listened to hundreds of thousands of American dollars being discharged (or more) and thousands of gallons of jet fuel being burned in that one day- and this had been going on for six weeks.  While I doubt there were any injuries or fatalities, it brought the cost of war very close to home, and impressed me that an engagement (even the vague possibility of one) costs our people much more than what we send overseas, and has a lifelong lasting impression on locals who have seen decades of this behavior come and go…

Thursday March 8th:
The next morning Ron arrived with a big heavy anchor.  We had talked about how I wanted to get a cheap anchor because I really couldn’t afford marina prices every night, but wasn’t confident that my current anchor I had gotten at Lake Norman was heavy enough to hold my boat in rougher weather.  Confidence is king when it comes to getting a good night’s sleep while anchored in unfamiliar waters alone in the rural dark.  For $20 he gave an anchor that would hold for sure, and after getting some basic contact info for if and when I returned his way, I pushed off to continue south to Wilmington.

So long, Sloop Point NC